Retinol vs Bakuchiol: The Ultimate Skincare Showdown

Aug 3, 2023by Heather Smith

Bakuchiol vs Retinol

Is bakuchiol truly the gentler, natural answer to retinol? Or are its benefits overhyped? After struggling with the harsh effects of retinol for years, I found my answer in bakuchiol—and it transformed my skin.

I've written extensively about the skincare ingredient bakuchiol, and I've also discussed the main reasons people quit retinoids. However, there's no question that retinoids are highly effective, so now it's time to pit the two ingredients head-to-head in this article that will definitively compare bakuchiol vs retinol.

If you've decided you cannot (or will not) use retinoids, you've probably been scouring Sephora's shelves for an effective bakuchiol serum. Wrinkles and acne can be stamped out with different strategies and ingredients. Bakuchiol is the popular choice, and there's good reason why.

But in the fight between bakuchiol vs retinol, what comes out ahead?

TL/DR

Bakuchiol vs retinol? The answer is: it depends.

For Me:

  • Winner: Bakuchiol.
  • I've seen amazing results and experienced none of the downsides of retinol - an ingredient I'm completely intolerant of.
  • It doesn't matter if retinol is a million times more effective than bakuchiol; I can't use it.

For You:

  • It depends on your:
    • Shopping preferences
    • Skin tolerance
    • Goals
  • If you're interested in trying bakuchiol, the research evidence comparing the two ingredients is compelling.
  • However, retinol has many more years of experience and data.
  • From a pure results standpoint, it's likely that retinol would win; however, there is so much more to consider.

Retinol vs Bakuchiol: Detailed Comparison

Clearly, I'm biased. I love bakuchiol, and I'm the founder of a skincare brand that sells an award-winning bakuchiol serum.

There are many differences between bakuchiol and retinol. In order to provide as balanced and unbiased a review as possible, I decided to ask AI for an unbiased summary comparing the two ingredients. Then I declared a winner in each category:

  • Ingredient Source: Bakuchiol is natural, derived from the Psoralea corylifolia plant. Retinoids are synthetic or derived from Vitamin A. This is a tie. Preference depends on how much natural sourcing matters to you.

  • Skin Irritation: Retinoids cause skin irritation, redness, and peeling, especially when you first start using them or if you use them in higher concentrations. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, does not cause irritation, making it a more gentle option for people with sensitive skin. Winner: Bakuchiol.

  • Antioxidant Properties: Both have antioxidant benefits, but bakuchiol also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, making it ideal for acne-prone and sensitive skin. Winner: Bakuchiol.

  • Mechanism of Action: Retinoids bind and activate retinoic acid receptors in skin, causing increased cell turnover and collagen production. Bakuchiol acts on similar receptors but works differently at the cellular level, making it gentler. Winner: ?

  • Sun Sensitivity: Retinoids increase sun sensitivity, while bakuchiol does not. Winner: Bakuchiol.

  • Eye Dryness: Eye involvement from meibomian gland dysfunction is a possible complication of using retinol. This has not been reported in bakuchiol users. Thankfully, the damage shouldn't be permanent, but you should always consult with a dermatologist before using retinoids if this has happened to you. Winner: Bakuchiol.

  • Acne Worsening: Due to the changes in cell turnover, retinol may cause initial purging (worsening acne); bakuchiol does not. Winner: Bakuchiol.

  • Pregnancy: Retinoids, particularly prescription retinoids like retinoic acid, are not recommended during pregnancy. Bakuchiol is often touted as a safer alternative during these periods, although, as always, it's important to consult with a healthcare professional before using any new skincare product during pregnancy. Winner: Bakuchiol.

  • Compatibility with Other Skincare Ingredients: Some skincare ingredients, such as benzoyl peroxide, reduce the effectiveness of retinoids. It's not advisable to use retinol with Vitamin C or hydroxy acids. Bakuchiol doesn't have these same compatibility issues, making it a more versatile ingredient. Winner: Bakuchiol.

  • Research and Proven Efficacy: Retinoids have been extensively studied and are proven to combat a variety of skin issues, from acne to signs of aging. While early research on bakuchiol is promising, and it appears to provide similar benefits to retinoids, there's still less scientific evidence supporting its use, mainly because it's a newer ingredient. Retinol & bakuchiol tie, BUT the entire class "retinoid" wins overall.

  • Availability and Cost: Retinoids come in both over-the-counter versions (like retinol) and stronger, prescription-strength versions. Bakuchiol, being a natural compound, is available over the counter. However, it is often more expensive as it is a niche product. Winner: Retinol.

retinol vs bakuchiol - infographic

Final Thoughts

The current evidence comparing bakuchiol vs retinol head-to-head found bakuchiol to be comparable to retinol (this was at a 0.5% concentration for both ingredients).

This makes it safe to assume you will see results regardless of which ingredient you choose.

When it comes to chemical structure and function, bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol. Even though the skin effects and visible results are comparable to retinol, the bakuchiol molecule is not similar. The two both work on cells that produce collagen and melanin. The end result is similar, but the chemical structures are unrelated. This explains why the two have such different side effects.

Everybody wants to know if bakuchiol is better than retinol.

The current evidence only suggests bakuchiol is comparable—not better. For some people, it's better (particularly people who can't or won't use retinol). 

Another issue is that there isn't any data comparing bakuchiol to prescription retinoids. When it comes to a long-term comparison of bakuchiol vs retinoids (not just retinol), the safe assumption is that retinoids (as a whole) are probably more effective. The data for retinoids goes back to at least 1984.

However, there are many other factors to consider when deciding what to use. Results matter, but not if the risks or side effects are too high. So many people can't tolerate retinol due to the skin barrier damage it causes. That is why we view retinol alternative regimens as important options.


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About the Author

Dr. Heather Smith developed her love for skinimalism and clean beauty years ago when she began making home remedies for her newborn's eczema. She is an expert in natural ingredients and active botanicals and has now launched bareLUXE Skincare - a full line of effective oil serums. She dedicates this blog to consumers who are researching ingredients and working to make their beauty ritual more natural and sustainable.

MEDICAL DISCLAIMER 

This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to provide medical advice or to take the place of such advice or treatment from a personal physician. All readers/viewers of this content are advised to consult their doctors or qualified health professionals regarding specific health questions. Neither Dr. Smith nor the publisher of this content takes responsibility for possible health consequences of any person or persons reading or following the information in this educational content. All viewers of this content should consult their physicians about their skincare concerns and routines.