What Is Face Oil? Uses, Benefits & Best Options for Every Skin Type

Human written by Dr. Heather Smith. Links are non-affiliate.

Dr. Smith is the founder of bareLUXE Skincare, a brand that specializes in face oils for each skin type. 

A face oil is a skincare product made from plant-based oils that nourish, protect, and moisturize your skin. They are  used to support the skin barrier, lock in hydration, and improve skin tone and texture. 

This guide covers everything you need to know: what face oils are, how to use them, which oils are best for different skin types, and how to choose the right one for your needs - whether you're shopping or going the DIY route.

I didn't start my natural skincare journey planning to become an expert in face oils. 

However, as I developed my own product line, I got deeper and deeper into the nuances of each oil. I've tested and analyzed at least 50 different carrier oils!

But this should be fun. Don't get bogged down or overwhelmed! Let us do the work! 

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What is Face Oil?

A face oil is an anhydrous (contains no water) mixture of oils that may also contain oil-soluble, active ingredients, such as herbal extracts.

By not adding water or water-soluble ingredients, there is no need for emulsifiers, solubilizers, surfactants, or preservatives. This helps give your skin a radiant glow with the fewest ingredients.

For many people this is appealing because pure, natural face oils are as close to nature as you can get.

What is a Carrier Oil?

A carrier oil is a mild oil that doesn't have many of its own dramatic properties such as color or scent. Carrier oils high in antioxidants are especially healthy for the skin.

The term carrier oil originates from the aromatherapy world, where the purpose is to dilute essential oils so they can be used for the aroma while doing massage.

What is a Specialized Oil?

Specialized oils are plant-based oils with unique or outstanding properties that make them best used in diluted form.

Examples of specialized oils not generally used at 100% concentration are: broccoli seed oil (which has a strong odour), tamanu oil (which is thick and almost black), and sea buckthorn oil (which will stain your skin and clothes if used at high concentration).

They each have a specialized purpose and are effective in lower concentrations. 

What is an Essential Oil?

Essential oils are concentrated plant extracts that retain the natural smell and flavour, or "essence," of their source. These oils are usually obtained through steam distillation or solvent extraction.

Essential oils are the most concentrated and contain very high levels of phytochemicals and volatile, aromatic compounds. They require knowledge and training to use safely and are not always safe to use on your face.

Understanding the Role of Face Oils in Skin Care

Oils are extracted from various seeds, nuts, kernels, and vegetables. 

Cold pressing is the best method to extract phytonutrients from seeds. It's the least destructive extraction method that protects the delicate phytochemicals.

Generally, the best quality face oils are cold-pressed and organic.

But, do they all possess such different compositions that they are each uniquely able to target individual skin concerns?

The short answer is yes, carrier oils are all unique. For example, pomegranate oil is one of the only sources of punicic acid; meadowfoam oil is high in eicosenoic acid, while borage and evening primrose oil are highest in GLA.

Each unique carrier oil can be the star player in different products for different skin types and concerns.

However, carrier oils are passive in the quest for dramatic, results-based skincare. In order to be more effective and produce dramatic results, active ingredients need to be added to the carrier oils - that's where bareLUXE has specialized. 

The Science Behind Face Oil

Each oil is unique and contains different types and percentages of fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins, phytochemicals, and minerals. Let's break things down.

Fatty Acid Composition

Face oils are rich in fatty acids, the proportion of which can significantly influence their properties and benefits. 

Linoleic acid is beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin, as it regulates sebum production and can unclog pores. Oleic acid is a bit thicker and feels richer, so it's much more moisturizing and better for dry skin. The ratio between the two is a major factor in determining the skin-feel, absorption rate, and whether it is suitable for oily or acne-prone skin.

Common fatty acids in most carrier oils include palmitic acid, stearic acid, and lauric acid. Palmitic and stearic acids, both saturated fats, help improve skin texture and appearance. Lauric acid has antimicrobial properties.

Not all oils fit into these typical carrier oil compositions. For instance, jojoba oil is technically a wax ester, not an oil, and it's uniquely composed mostly of eicosenoic acid, which closely resembles human sebum. Pomegranate oil contains a rare Omega-5 fatty acid called punicic acid, with strong anti-inflammatory properties. Tamanu oil is another unique carrier oil, as it contains a rare lipid called calophyllic acid known for its wound-healing properties.

These unique oils underscore the diversity and potential benefits of carrier oils in skincare.

Phytochemical Profile

Carrier oils are rich in bioactive compounds like polyphenols, flavonoids, and sterols, which each provide a range of skincare benefits. Estimating the total number of phytochemicals in plant oils is challenging; however, it's safe to say that there are thousands.

Polyphenols such as resveratrol in grape seed oil have potent antioxidant properties that protect skin from free radical damage. 

Flavonoids like silymarin in milk thistle oil offer additional antioxidant protection and help soothe inflammation. 

Additionally, sterols, or plant steroids, support the skin barrier. One example is beta-sitosterol that helps retain moisture in the skin and reduce inflammation. 

These bioactive compounds contribute to the therapeutic properties of carrier oils in face care, aiding skin protection, hydration, and soothing inflammation.

Regulation of Sebum Production

The sebaceous glands in our skin produce a natural oil called sebum. Genetics and hormones decide how much (or how little) sebum you produce. 

Sebum moisturizes, waterproofs, and protects your skin.

Sebum is composed of 57% fatty acids, 26% natural waxes, 12% squalene, and 4.5% cholesterol. Clogged pores come from a buildup of sebum and dead cells.

The skin's sebum production is largely controlled by our hormones, particularly androgens (sex steroids). The topical use of oil influences the skin's perceived need for more or less sebum.

Applying oil to your face moisturizes the skin and creates a protective barrier that prevents water loss. This signals to your skin that there's no need to produce excess sebum, thereby reducing oiliness.

Some oils, such as jojoba, closely mimic the structure of human sebum, which tricks the skin into believing it's produced enough oil so sebum production decreases.

While cleansing and exfoliating the skin removes excess sebum and dead cells, it is important to know that over-washing, over-scrubbing, or using harsh cleansers can strip and dry out your skin enough that it starts producing even more sebum. A damaged skin barrier will make acne worse.

Moisturizing and Preventing Dehydration

The skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum, functions as a natural barrier that protects underlying tissue from infection, dehydration, chemicals and mechanical stress.

This barrier also regulates transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the process of water evaporation from the skin's surface.

When your skin loses water, it gets dehydrated. Face oils support the skin barrier and help prevent TEWL in several ways. 

• • The lipids in face oils closely resemble those in the skin (ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids). By replenishing these lipids, face oils maintain the integrity of the skin barrier.
  • Face oils form a light, occlusive layer on the skin's surface, reducing evaporation/water loss.
  • Face oils also act as emollients, filling in gaps between skin cells. This results in a smoother, more hydrated skin surface.

Oils high in linoleic acid directly support the production of your own natural ceramides. PLUS, some oils even contain natural ceramides, so it's a win-win situation.

The antioxidants found in face oils protect the skin barrier from damage caused by environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution.

Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant Effects

Inflammation causes redness, irritation, and worsens conditions like acne and rosacea. Certain oils, contain high levels of linoleic acid or gamma-linolenic acid, both known to reduce inflammation.

Antioxidants play a crucial role in protecting the skin against stress from environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution.

Oxidative stress causes premature aging, skin damage, and various skin conditions. Oils that are rich in antioxidants such as vitamin E, carotenoids, and polyphenols, neutralize harmful free radicals, preventing them from damaging skin cells and collagen, thus helping to maintain skin health and reduce signs of aging.

Antibacterial and Antifungal Effects

Several face oils showcase potent antibacterial and antifungal properties, which can be advantageous for individuals with acne-prone skin.

For instance, neem oil is renowned for its extensive antimicrobial properties. It is rich in compounds like nimbin and azadirachtin, which combat a variety of bacteria and fungi, including Propionibacterium acnes, the bacteria primarily responsible for acne.

Likewise, thyme oil, particularly thymol, disrupts the integrity of bacterial cell membranes, inhibiting their growth and eventually leading to their destruction.

Jojoba oil regulates the skin's natural oils and prevents the overgrowth of Malassezia, a type of yeast implicated in conditions such as dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Additionally, some essential oils are recognized for their robust antifungal properties.

Benefits of Oil for the Face

The skin health benefits of face oil are numerous, and all stem from the long list of physiologic properties discussed in the section above.

These are the many skin benefits of facial oils:

• Locks in moisture and prevents water loss
• Strengthens and repairs the skin barrier (which improves skin hydration)
• Antioxidants protect from free radicals and environmental damage
• Evens out skin tone and reduces discoloration
• Eliminates dull skin and brightens for a radiant glow
• Enhances collagen production and improves elasticity which reduces the look of fine lines and wrinkles
• Enhances absorption of other active ingredients in your beauty products
• Creates a dewy finish when used before foundation
• Regulates your natural sebum production
• Reduces acne breakouts and blemishes (due to the anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, and sebum-regulating properties)
• May reduce the appearance of scars (learn more: best face oils for scars)
• Improves overall skin texture and softness
• Soothes sensitive skin and reduces inflammation

Face Oil: A Game-Changer for Skin Hydration

Hydration and moisturization are different.

Oils do not directly hydrate the skin. In order to hydrate, you need to help the skin gain more water. Oils moisturize and help prevent water loss. 

Hydration is determined by how much water stays within your cells. Dehydration is due to water loss and is caused by low humidity, aging, UV exposure, low water intake, hot showers, air-conditioned environments, etc. Humectants, such as hyaluronic acid, work by pulling moisture from the air and bringing it to your skin.

Even oily skin can become dehydrated. 

Skin dryness is determined by the amount of oil present. Dry skin may feel rough and look flaky. Moisturization traps and seals moisture while building the skin's protective barrier to prevent water loss. Skin that is damaged and irritated will lose water. Dry skin needs emollients to help re-establish the broken barrier.

Face oils work as emollients and moisturize your skin. However, they still improve your overall skin health and hydration because they lock it in and prevent water loss. 

Do Facial Oils Clog Pores

We've taken a deep-dive into the world of non-comedogenic oils, but here are the key things to know:

The degree to which a carrier oil causes clogged pores can be classified according to a scale ranging from 0 (extremely unlikely) to 5 (likely). 

Oils with a rating of 0-1 are best for all skin types and should be the oils of choice if you have oily skin. They are often referred to as "dry oils" because they are light and penetrate quickly. The chance of clogging pores is extremely low and they are the best for acne and oily skin.

Oils in the 2 range are best for people with normal, dry, or mature skin. They feel a bit heavier at first but will still absorb without leaving a greasy feel. Clogged pores are unlikely for most people. 

Anything rated 4 and 5 should usually be avoided in face products.

How to Use Face Oil

Beauty routines often change based on skin type, condition, and the season of the year. Hormones contribute to skin needs and people who menstruate have cyclic changes. 

You may find you need a more occlusive or heavier oil at certain times of the year. However, even in the summer months, light facial oils are important to help prevent water loss from your tissues. 

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Apply Face Oil

• • Cleanse: Always start with a clean face. Remove any makeup and cleanse your skin with a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser.
  • Tone: After cleansing, apply a toner to balance your skin's pH levels and prep your skin for the face oil. Some people choose to skip toning, which is a personal preference. They're not essential.
  • Serums and Moisturizers: If you use a water-based serum, apply it next. Moisturizers and lotions are often a mix of oil and water-based ingredients, but still best to apply before your oil.
  • Face Oil: Now it's time for the face oil. Place a few drops (typically 2-3) onto your fingertips. Warm the oil by gently rubbing your fingers together. Gently press the oil into your skin, starting from the cheeks and moving to the forehead, nose, and then chin. Don't forget your neck and décolletage. Use a light patting motion rather than rubbing.
  • Sunscreen: If you're applying face oil in the morning, finish off with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin from UV damage.

Tips and Tricks for Maximizing the Benefits of Face Oil

• Less is More: When it comes to face oils, a few drops are usually enough to cover the entire face. Applying too much can leave your skin feeling greasy. Oilier skin types should start with 2 drops at night. Dry skin types can start with 3 drops twice a day.
• Use at Night: While you can use face oils both morning and night, many people prefer to use them at night. This gives the oil plenty of time to sink into the skin without interference from makeup or other daytime products.
• Mix with Your Moisturizer: If you find that your face oil isn't absorbing as well as you'd like, try mixing a few drops with your moisturizer.
• Store Correctly: Keep your face oil out of direct sunlight and in a cool, dry place to maintain its efficacy. Most face oils have a shelf life of 6-12 months once opened.
• Patch Test: Always perform a patch test when trying a new oil to ensure it doesn't irritate your skin or cause an allergic reaction. 

Final Thoughts: Is Face Oil Right for You?

bareLUXE is proud to be a specialist in face oils. There are innumerable options out there and trying new ones is so much fun! 

If you're brand-new to using face oil or are worried about your complexion remember this:

• Keep it simple: start with 100% squalane
• Less is more: start with 2-3 drops at bedtime

Discover the best face oils with bareLUXE Skincare.

We specialize in scientifically-formulated face oils, merging traditional wisdom with modern data to create oils for every skin type and concern.

Transform Your Beauty Ritual and Explore Our Award-Winning Collection Now

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