The Surprising Truth About Marula Oil for Your Face: Not a One-Size-Fits-All Solution
Marula oil has been gaining popularity as a cure-all for skin ailments recently, but we're here to tell you that's not necessarily the case.
Marula oil is controversial because it's not the best facial oil, but some big brands out there want you to think differently.
Don't worry, there isn't any sinister marketing lie - the issue is that marula oil's antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential isn't as powerful as other oils, plus the high oleic acid level is not balanced, so the pore-clogging risk is higher.
This makes marula oil a nice-to-have for some people but not a ride-or-die oil for most.
In this article, we'll explore why marula oil is only suitable for some and we'll give you a list of better, non-comedogenic oils to pursue instead.
TL/DR:
We prefer other oils for face and hair use, but marula oil is best for:
- Body moisturization
- Chapped lips
- Stretch marks
- Brittle nails and cuticles
- People with very dry skin who already know it won't break them out
Expert Tip: Worried about clogged pores from marula oil? Good news—you have better options. Our line of oil serums is results-driven and enhanced with active ingredients, making them a cut above your average carrier oils.
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What is The History of Marula Oil
Sclerocarya birrea (marula) oil is derived from the nuts of the marula tree, which grows in parts of Southern Africa. It's been used for centuries by locals to treat various skin conditions. Yet, there isn't much data out there to support its effectiveness.
The marula tree has been a source of nutrition for thousands of years, with evidence showing its use dating back to 10,000 B.C. It's a botanical treasure of Africa, often called the tree of life. Its fruits and nuts are rich in minerals and vitamins.
Marula trees grow up to 18 meters tall. The fruit is edible and high in vitamin C, and the tree has many uses, including as a source of wood for carving, bark for rope-making and dyeing, and leaves for medicinal purposes. The marula fruit can be used to make jam, juices, and alcoholic beverages, but scientists have debunked the myth that elephants get drunk off the fermented fruit.
Marula oil itself consists mainly of oleic acid and palmitic acid. Despite being marketed as an effective facial moisturizer or treatment for wrinkles and other signs of aging, it's important to know that pure marula oil isn't necessarily suitable for all skin types.
What is The Fatty Acid Composition of Marula Oil
Virgin marula oil consists primarily of oleic acid - an omega-9 monounsaturated fatty acid. However, it also contains smaller amounts of palmitic acid, a fatty acid which may be more irritating than beneficial due to its comedogenic properties that can lead to breakouts if used at too high a concentration. Oleic acid isn't a "bad" oil, but it needs to be offset with high levels of linoleic acid to ensure you receive the positive benefits and not the side effects.
- Oleic acid (omega-9): 70-78%
- Palmitic acid: 9-12%
- Stearic acid: 5-8%
- Linoleic acid (omega-6): 4-7%
- Arachidonic acid (omega-6): < 0.5%
- Alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3): < 0.5%
- Eicosanoic acid: < 0.5%
The Use of Marula Oil For Face Care
While there may be some benefits from using marula oil for face care, this product does not offer any notable advantages compared to other facial oils.
The fatty acid profile makes marula oil "just ok" for skin that's very dry, otherwise it's found itself on our list of worst oils for the face. Oleic acid is a beneficial fatty acid for the skin, but when it's present in high concentrations, it can be irritating or pore-clogging unless it's balanced out with a high percentage of linoleic acid.
Oils, like argan, that are high in oleic acid AND linoleic acid are the best for your facial skin because the balance gives you the best of both worlds - the oleic acid moisturizes and the linoleic acid reduces inflammation and acne.
It's also worth noting that even though marula oil does contain antioxidants, these components aren't as potent as what one would find in other types of facial moisturizers or anti-aging treatments available on the market today. As such, those looking for significant results from using marula oil alone will likely end up disappointed, no matter how much they apply or how frequent their usage is over time.
Marula Oil Comedogenic Rating
For most people selecting an oil for their face, we don't recommend using oils with a comedogenic rating greater than two. The oils rated three and above are more likely to clog pores. The oils in the "3" range are borderline and can still be beneficial for some people with very dry skin.
However, definitely skip marula oil for acne treatment!
Marula receives a rating of 3. For the reasons noted above (the high palmitic acid and the low linoleic acid), irritation and pore-clogging are more common with marula oil than many others.
Benefits of Marula Oil for Hair and Body
There are much better choices for hair and scalp health than marula oil. However, its potential as an all-around body care product should not be overlooked.
The body is where marula oil can really shine. Like coconut oil (another oil preferable on the body rather than the face), marula will help get your dry, flaky skin back in check.
If you have a pure marula oil product, try using it on your nails and cuticles, lips, and stretch marks, as well as your body - arms, legs, knees, and elbows can benefit most from what this carrier oil has to offer.
What is The Shelf Life of Marula Oil?
Once formulated or adding extra antioxidants, the shelf life will extend closer to 1.5-2 years as long as kept cool and away from light.
Is Marula Oil Safe For All Skin Types?
No. Marula oil can be too heavy for people with oily or acne-prone skin. In addition, its high level of palmitic acid, unbalanced with low levels of linoleic acid, contributes to the possibility of increased acne or inflammation in some users.
There is no specific safety precaution needed for most people, but it's essential to know that marula oil comes from a nut - which could be an allergen for some people. Talk to your doctor if you're worried.
If you're new to using face oils or if your worried about increasing acne or inflammation, there are so many other oils that are universally more balanced and beneficial for all skin types, including oily or acne-prone.
Our list of favourite face oils is long; start by considering abyssinian, argan, meadowfoam, pomegranate, rosehip and squalane (the best face oil ever).
Is Marula Oil Farming Sustainable
Ensure that you choose a brand or product certified by an international standard such as Ecocert - certifying sustainable farming practices behind their production process.
Due to the way in which marula oils have traditionally been produced, ethical concerns often arise surrounding the sustainability of their production process. Although Ecocert or organic certification ensures a certain level of ethical standards are met during harvesting and manufacturing processes, much of the industry remains unregulated, leaving consumers unsure whether they can trust what brands claim about their sourcing practices.
Certified organic marula oil does exist, but much of it is wild-harvested, so the growing environment won't be altered (but the risk of overfarming does exist).
Wild harvesting can have some advantages (local economic growth), but also risk for exploitation if wages aren't appropriate or if proper agricultural practices aren't taught and encouraged.
Conclusion
The use of marula oil on the face is a controversial topic among skincare experts. While some believe it improves skin tone, texture and hydration, others argue that the fatty acid profile puts it on the bottom of the list for facial oils.
Because of the unbalanced fatty acid profile, marula oil isn't suitable for all skin types - those with sensitive, acne-prone, or oily skin need to be extra cautious when considering adding this product into their routine, as it could worsen existing conditions, including clogged pores and acne.
If you do use it, start with dry skin areas like nails, cuticles, stretch marks, knees, and elbows. If you have severe dryness on your skin or scalp, it's still ok to try it for overall hair health or facial use; it's just not for everyone.
References
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Sales-Campos H, Souza PR, Peghini BC, da Silva JS, Cardoso CR. An overview of the modulatory effects of oleic acid in health and disease. Mini Rev Med Chem. 2013 Feb;13(2):201-10..
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Traditional and Medicinal Uses of Essential Oil Producing Tree Sclerocarya birrea in South-Central Zimbabwe, Journal of Essential Oil-Bearing Plants.
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Shoko T, Maharaj VJ, Naidoo D, Tselanyane M, Nthambeleni R, Khorombi E, Apostolides Z. Anti-aging potential of extracts from Sclerocarya birrea (A. Rich.) Hochst and its chemical profiling by UPLC-Q-TOF-MS. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2018 Feb 7;18(1):54.
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Safety and efficacy of Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst (Marula) oil: A clinical perspective, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, U.S. National Library of Medicine, National Institutes of Health.
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African seed oils of commercial importance — Cosmetic applications, South African Journal of Botany, ScienceDirect.
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Sclerocarya birrea (Marula), An African Tree of Nutritional and Medicinal Uses: A Review, Food Reviews International, Taylor & Francis Online.
Dr. Heather Smith developed her love for skinimalism and clean beauty years ago when she began making home remedies for her newborn's eczema. She is an expert in natural ingredients and active botanicals and has now launched bareLUXE Skincare - a full line of effective oil serums. She dedicates this blog to consumers who are researching ingredients and working to make their beauty ritual more natural and sustainable.
MEDICAL DISCLAIMER
This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to provide medical advice or to take the place of such advice or treatment from a personal physician. All readers/viewers of this content are advised to consult their doctors or qualified health professionals regarding specific health questions. Neither Dr. Smith nor the publisher of this content takes responsibility for possible health consequences of any person or persons reading or following the information in this educational content. All viewers of this content should consult their physicians about their skincare concerns and routines.
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